Comprehensive Electric Blue Day Gecko Care and Maintenance

To keep your electric blue day gecko happy and healthy, it's essential to provide a suitable environment. They thrive in temperatures between 75°F and 85°F (24°C and 30°C), with a slight drop in temperature at night.

A well-ventilated enclosure is crucial for these geckos, as they are prone to respiratory issues. This can be achieved by providing a screen-top enclosure or adding ventilation holes to the sides.

A diet rich in live insects is necessary for electric blue day geckos. In fact, they require a minimum of 80% live insects in their diet, with the remaining 20% consisting of commercial pellets or fruits.

Regular cleaning of the enclosure is vital to prevent the buildup of bacteria and fungi. This can be done by replacing the substrate completely every 2-3 months.

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To keep your electric blue day gecko happy and healthy, it's essential to provide the right environment.

These small geckos thrive in temperatures between 75°F and 85°F (24°C and 29°C), with a slight drop in temperature at night.

Make sure to maintain high humidity levels, around 60-80%, to prevent dehydration and stress.

A well-ventilated enclosure is crucial to prevent respiratory issues, so ensure good airflow by leaving space between decorations and using a screen top.

Their diet consists mainly of live insects, such as crickets and mealworms, so be prepared to offer a varied and nutritious menu.

By following these simple care tips, you'll be well on your way to creating a happy and thriving environment for your electric blue day gecko.

This species is above average on the activity scale, but it has a limited body mass to store reserves.

The biggest challenge in captive care is finding appropriately sized food for these tiny geckos. Adult males average 3 inches long from the nose to the end of the tail, and females are slightly smaller.

Most keepers, including me, struggle to maintain a healthy stock of "mini" insects that are the right size for these geckos.

They need constant attention to keep them safe, hydrated, and well-fed.

The Electric Blue Day Geckos are a small species, rarely exceeding 2.5 inches in total length.

These geckos are relatively small, which makes them a great choice for experienced hobbyists who want a compact pet.

Due to their recent influx into the hobby, little is known about their natural lifespan, but an average of 5 to 10 years is not unexpected.

Electric blue day geckos thrive in environments with moderate to high humidity, ranging from 60 to 80%. To maintain this level, mist your gecko's enclosure 1-2 times a day with a spray bottle, ideally in the morning and at night.

A digital probe hygrometer should be used to measure humidity levels, with the probe placed in the middle of the terrarium. This will help you adjust the humidity levels as needed to ensure your gecko's comfort.

To further enhance humidity, you can also use a cool mist humidifier connected to a humidistat at night. This will provide your gecko with a consistent and stable environment.

Here are some recommended substrates for electric blue day geckos:

These substrates imitate the tropical soil that electric blue day geckos naturally live on, and should be at least 2 inches deep. It's also essential to replace the substrate completely every 3-4 months, and remove poop and urates daily.

Temperature control is crucial for electric blue geckos. Daytime temperatures should be between 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, and nighttime temperatures between 74 and 79 degrees. The basking spot can be hot, ranging between 89 and 94 degrees, as long as the geckos can retreat to cooler areas of the vivarium once they've warmed up.

Humidity levels should be between 60 and 80 percent, with the vivarium's bottom having a higher humidity than the top. This can be controlled by misting the vivarium substrate, plants and sides two to three times a day. In the evening, when the lights are off, it is OK for the humidity to reach near 100 percent.

You can use a hydrometer to monitor humidity levels and then make your adjustments as needed. Keep in mind that a low humidity dehydrates this small gecko and will ultimately cause their demise. Adding live plants suitable to moist soils will help keep humidity levels high.

Here are some recommended substrates for electric blue geckos:

Layering clean, chemical-free leaf litter on top of the substrate can also help with humidity. Substrate should be at least 2” deep and completely replaced every 3-4 months.

Electric blue geckos need plenty of space for running around and climbing. A 12” x 12” x 18” terrarium is the minimum recommended size, but larger is always better.

Make sure to seal any gaps and cracks in the enclosure to prevent escape, as these tiny geckos can be amazing escape artists.

Lighting and temperature are crucial elements of electric blue day gecko care. Electric blue day geckos need a temperature gradient in their enclosure, with a basking spot temperature of 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit and a cooler area around 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

To achieve this, you can use a combination of lighting and heat sources. For example, you can use a halogen basking spot and a color/daylight rated fluorescent light, such as a 5.0 ultraviolet bulb. Compact fluorescent lighting can heat up a small vivarium quickly, so it's best to choose linear fluorescents instead.

A good option is to use two fluorescent tubes, one for UV and one for daylight intensity and color needs. For instance, you can use a Zilla T5 Desert Series UV 5.0 Fluorescent bulb and a Zoo Med Nature Sun, CRI 98, 6500 Kelvin daylight bulb. Alternatively, you can use a mercury vapor bulb, such as a ZooMed Powersun bulb, which produces lots of UVB light and heat.

It's essential to provide a natural day/night cycle for your electric blue day geckos. This means keeping the lights on for 12 hours a day and using a timer to control the lighting and heating schedule. For example, in the summer, you can keep the lights on for 14 hours a day, while in the winter, you can reduce the lighting time to 10 hours a day.

Here are some recommended UVB bulbs for electric blue geckos:

Remember to replace the UVB bulb every 6 months to ensure your geckos receive the necessary UVB lighting.

Electric blue day geckos are insectivores, which means they need a diet rich in insects and other invertebrates. They will readily feed on most commonly available feeder insects, including small crickets, fruit flies, small mealworms, and more.

In the wild, electric blue day geckos would consume a wide variety of insects, so it's essential to provide a varied diet in captivity. Supplementing with a high-quality reptile multivitamin and calcium powder is highly recommended.

Here's a list of feeder insects suitable for electric blue day geckos:

You can also offer Repashy Gecko Meal Replacement Powder or ZooMed Day Gecko Food as a supplement to their diet. This will help add variety and ensure they're getting all the necessary nutrients.

In addition to insects, offering a calcium supplement is crucial for electric blue day geckos. Repashy Supercal NoD is a recommended calcium supplement that can be lightly dusted on all feeder insects.

Breeding electric blue day geckos can be a challenge, even for experienced keepers. Successful breeding requires strong, robust, and healthy breeders.

Select prime, sexually mature, and fully acclimated specimens for breeding. Wild-caught geckos need special attention to help with weight gain and fight dehydration.

A wild-caught gecko that doesn't start eating promptly can lose weight and become calcium-deficient very quickly, so it's essential to feed small meals once or twice a day.

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Breeding electric-blue day geckos is a challenging task, even for experienced keepers. They require strong, robust, and healthy breeders to succeed.

The ideal time for breeding is when geckos are about a year old, or near full adult size, which is around 2.5 to 3 inches in total length. This allows them to reach sexual maturity, which occurs six to eight months after hatching.

To determine the sex of a juvenile gecko, look for the development of blue colors, which is a sign of sexual maturity in males. Femoral pores above the vent area are also a definitive male marking, while females have no femoral pores.

Males develop hemipenal bulges as they mature, and their underside features a black neck and vibrant orange stomach. In contrast, juvenile females have less distinct neck colors and light to cream stomach colors.

Successful breeding requires a healthy group of geckos, which can be achieved by quarantining newly acquired specimens for up to two months to acclimatize them to captivity. Regular cleaning of the enclosure, misting, and feeding small meals can also help wild-caught geckos gain weight and fight dehydration.

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Handling lizards can be a delicate matter, especially for those with small and fast pets like electric blue geckos, which are best not handled at all.

It's best to interact with your pet using alternative methods, such as hand-feeding with a pair of feeding tweezers.

Some lizards may not appreciate being handled, so it's essential to observe their behavior and reactions before attempting to touch them.

Handling your geckos can be a delicate matter, but with patience and understanding, you can build a strong bond with them. They become stressed very easily when held due to their small size.

Males can be quite bold and may even take food from your fingers, which is a great sign of trust. There are accounts of males that would climb onto their keeper's hands to bask while working in the cage.

It's essential to interact with your geckos on their terms, respecting their boundaries and allowing them to initiate contact. With time and patience, you can gain their trust and they'll learn that you're not a threat.

To set up a terrarium for your electric blue gecko, start with a drainage layer at the bottom, covered with landscaping cloth, followed by a substrate layer that can hold up to moist conditions. This layer should be at least 2-3 inches deep and can be made from a mixture of peat moss and sand.

For the substrate layer, a 75-25 peat moss to sand ratio is a simple and cost-effective option. On top of the substrate, add a 1-inch layer of leaf litter, which not only looks natural but also provides shelter for springtails and other terrarium cleaners. Live plants, such as wide-leafed Sanseveria plants, can be planted in the substrate and will thrive in the terrarium's environment.

Some essential items to include in your terrarium are branches for your gecko to bask on, live or artificial foliage for it to hide in, and a feeding ledge for easy access to food and water. A branch or two will suffice, but you can also add more branches, vines, and ledges to create a more naturalistic environment.

When setting up a terrarium for your electric blue gecko, it's essential to get the size just right. The minimum terrarium size for a single electric blue gecko is 12”L x 12”W x 18”H.

You'll want to make sure the terrarium is escape-proof, as electric blue geckos are notorious escape artists due to their tiny size. Seal up every nook and cranny to prevent any unwanted escapes.

It's worth noting that a larger terrarium, particularly one that's wider, is always better for your gecko's well-being.

Decor and Furnishings are crucial elements of a terrarium setup, as they provide your geckos with a stimulating environment that encourages natural behavior.

You'll want to include branches for your geckos to bask on and live or artificial foliage for them to hide in.

In addition to branches and foliage, consider adding other items like vines, ledges, and small food and water bowls.

Since electric blue geckos are arboreal, they prefer to eat and drink up off the ground, so make sure to place their food and water bowls accordingly.

To add visual interest and provide hiding options, use a variety of wood products such as ZooMed Cork Rounds, Bamboo Hollows, Cork Flats, Grapevines, and Magnetic Ledges.

Live plants or other foliage options can also be used to provide hiding places and increase relative humidity in the terrarium.

Some good options for live plants include tropical vines, magnetically attached jungle vines, and naturalistic fake plants.

Here are some essential items to include in your gecko's terrarium:

When setting up your terrarium, choosing the right substrate is crucial for maintaining humidity and creating a naturalistic environment for your electric blue gecko.

The substrate should resemble tropical soil, which is where electric blue geckos naturally live. This means it should have small particles and hold moisture well.

For electric blue geckos, some great options for substrate include Zoo Med Eco Earth, Zoo Med ReptiSoil, Exo Terra Plantation Soil, and Zilla Jungle Mix.

These substrates are designed to mimic the natural environment of your gecko, making them perfect for a terrarium setup. You can layer clean, chemical-free leaf litter on top of the substrate to help with humidity.

The substrate should be at least 2” deep to allow your gecko to dig and move around comfortably. And don’t forget to replace it every 3-4 months to keep your terrarium clean and healthy.

Here are some recommended substrates for electric blue geckos:

Lighting is essential for electric blue day gecko health, as they need UVB light to stay healthy. Wild electric-blue day geckos seek morning sun to warm up.

In captivity, you'll want to provide a temperature gradient by using a combination of lighting types. For example, you can use a 5.0 ultraviolet bulb, a halogen basking spot, and a color/daylight rated fluorescent.

Compact fluorescent lighting can heat up a small vivarium quickly, so it's better to use linear fluorescents instead. They offer multiple choices for UV, daylight, and color qualities without creating lots of heat.

To meet lighting needs, choose a combination of two fluorescent tubes, one for UV and one for daylight intensity and color needs. For instance, you can use a Zilla T5 Desert Series UV 5.0 Fluorescent bulb and a Zoo Med Nature Sun, CRI 98, 6500 Kelvin daylight bulb.

Halogen spots are great basking lights for small terrariums, and for concise temperature control, you can attach a dimmer to the halogen fixture.

In larger terrariums, you can use a mercury vapor bulb to provide lots of UVB light and heat. However, be careful not to overheat the cage, as these bulbs can get very hot.